Vinous 91 points

One of the prized expressions in Grande Champagne — indeed, in all of Cognac. Aged 35 to 50 years, yet light amber in color. The incredibly complex nose is at first warm and affable, presenting pretty dried flowers, rose petals and roasted walnuts, but as you return to the glass, the aromas open up with a tropical explosion of pineapple, mango and guava. Wows the palate with so much going on at once, both profound and hedonistic. Lots of fiery spice and pepper at first, which is then balanced and rounded out by more opulent tropical fruit, some forest floor notes and a unique chalky finish. Consider how many thousands of dollars the blingy bottlings from the big houses fetch, and you’ll see what an incredible value this is — if you can find it.

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