Wine Advocate 94 points
Retaining a surprising hint of true red in the glass, the 2005 #2 Zweigelt Trockenbeerenauslese Nouvelle Vague announces itself with the strongest notes of bacon fat I have ever smelled outside of Gewurztraminer (or of the real thing sizzling in a pan). Cherry and rhubarb preserves and a sweet floral note rush in to assert some sense of Zweigelt typicity. The marriage of smoky, toasty barrel notes with fruit confiture and hints of leather and tobacco flatters both parties. There is an almost chewy sense of density here and along with spice and smoke there is even a lightly nippy hint of horseradish in the exhilarating, penetrating finish. Between the color of this wine and its sharp intensity, I would have guessed it blind to have been a Zweigelt or Pinot Noir Eiswein. I am sure that this will keep for a long time much less so what it will turn into. But for the next decade or so, it's safe to play around with it in direct conjunction with desserts, and I dare say it will be found capable of feats other wines would never attempt.
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