Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe Chateauneuf du Pape La Crau Rouge 2012

Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe is a producer in the southern Rhône region of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Owned by the Brunier family for more than 100 years, Vieux Télégraphe is one of the best-known producers in the region. The Brunier family also produces Gigondas-designated wine under the Les Pallieres label, IGP from Vaucluse, AOC Ventoux and wine under the label Massaya from the Bekaa Valley in Lebanon. Another Châteauneuf-du-Pape red was released by the family under the label La Roquette until 2011, when it was replaced with Piedlong.The domaine was established by Hippolyte Brunier and produced its first wine in 1900. It has grown to become one of the largest land owners in Châteauneuf-du-Pape with almost 100 hectares (240 acres). The majority of its vineyards are dedicated to red varieties, with Grenache being the most important grape in the region, though small sections of white wine are used in the production of Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc. The best fruit comes from the La Crau plateau, which sits elevated above many of the region's other vineyards, and is known for its galets, or pudding stones, that account for 70 percent of the soil composition and can reach depths of up to five meters (16ft). The eponymous Vieux Télégraphe is the flagship wine and is made with grapes from the La Crau vineyard, which has the oldest vines. The estate also makes a Télégraphe Blanc, as well as the second wine, Télégramme, made in both red (rouge) and white (blanc) styles. The Télégramme Rouge has a higher percentage of Grenache in its blend and fruit comes from the domaine's younger vines, but these are still decades old. The production of the Télégramme is more than 16,000 cases annually, giving it some of the largest production figures for a Châteauneuf-designated wine. The Télégramme Blanc is made in very small numbers and produced mostly for export to the United States.

Critical Acclaim

94 Wine Spectator

Rock-solid, with a hefty core of fig, blackberry and black cherry fruit, wrapped in chestnut and tobacco leaf notes and carrying through a lavender- and tar-framed finish. Dense and grippy, showing a slightly old-school shading. Should cellar well. Best from 2016 through 2030.

93 Wine Advocate

Lastly, the flagship 2012 Châteauneuf du Pape is a classically structured, elegant effort that will evolve gracefully on its balance and harmony. Showing the telltale seaweed, currants, olive, licorice and ample minerality so common in this cuvee, it’s medium to full-bodied, lightly textured and focused on the palate, with plenty of tannin. It needs 3-4 years of cellaring and will have 15-20 years of longevity. Located on the eastern edge of the appellation, near the village of Bedarrides, Vieux Télégraphe owns prime plots in the famed La Crau lieu-dit and fashion a traditional, age-worthy style of Châteauneuf du Pape. They continue to streamline the portfolio, and as I commented last year, now produce five Châteauneuf du Papes: three reds and two whites. The reds include the entry-level Télégramme, the Grenache-driven Piedlong, and their top cuvee, the classic Vieux Télégraphe. As for the whites, they have the classic Châteauneuf du Pape white, and while the La Roquete rouge was replaced by the Piedlong, they still release a white Châteauneuf du Pape under the La Roquete label. In addition to their Châteauneufs, this estate makes a bevy of high quality and well-priced releases from Ventoux. I was able to taste their Gigondas releases from Domaine Pallieres, and opted to include these releases in this report as well. This estate is a collaboration between Vieux Télégraphe’s Brunier brothers and one of the top Southern France importers, Kermit Lynch. 

93 Vinous

Opaque ruby. An intensely perfumed bouquet evokes spicy dark berries and potpourri, with zesty mineral and incense qualities adding complexity. Pliant boysenberry and candied lavender flavors are impressively fresh and focused, with a hint of licorice adding depth. Closes sweet, supple and broad, with resonating spiciness and gentle tannins that add shape and grip.