1999 Weingut Donnhoff Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Auslese 375ml

1999 Weingut Donnhoff Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Auslese 375ml

A monopole site for  Dönnhoff – the historic Luitpoldbrücke (Luitpold Bridge), built during the period of Royal Bavarian administration, crosses the Nahe River directly adjacent to the village of Oberhausen. Opposite that bridge lies a small vineyard parcel that benefits greatly from the nearby river’s moderating influence. A distinctive microclimate is created, protecting the vines and promoting early flowering each year, which translates into a long growing season for the late-ripening Riesling grape. The special soil composition, consisting of grey slate bedrock covered by a layer of loess loam, ensures an adequate water supply for the vines even during drought years. These conditions and ancient geology give rise to distinctive and elegant Riesling wines of great structure and concentration. The sheltered valley location is also a perfect stage for grapes to freeze on the vine in cold weather, the necessary precondition for luscious ice wines. These unusual conditions are the reason why this vineyard parcel, though measuring just 1.1 ha, is registered as one of the smallest protected sites on the Nahe.

Critical Acclaim

99 James Suckling

Auslese might sound cuddly to some, but this is a very radical wine with gigantic concentration of cool tropical fruit and mineral acidity. Electric glide on the medium- to full-bodied palate. The finish is all blue and green in spite of the extraordinary yellow fruit on the nose and front palate. And with that, only the most basic characteristics of this extraordinary wine are adequately described. Drink or hold.

96 Vinous

The 2023 Riesling Oberhäuser Brücke Auslese is made from mostly highly ripe grapes with around 10-15% of botrytized fruit, all pressed in a basket press, slowly, over hours, drip by drip is extracted, without rupturing the grape skins. The tender nose is not obvious; it shows distant notions of iced Reine Claude compote with an overtone of passion fruit foliage; all is lemony and tender. The palate is sweet, bright and concentrated, but it has a slender, taut footprint. Extreme elegance is the name of the game, and the tenor is still of fresh lemon juice and zest. Restraint and elegance are exemplified here.

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