The real secret to Raveneau’s quality is in the vineyards. During the 1960s and 1970s, François Raveneau—who died in 2000 and whose wife was a Dauvissat—assembled a domaine boasting one breathtaking parcel after another. Each is a tiny jewel, most no larger than a suburban house lot. In hectares: Les Clos is .5; Valmur .8; Blanchots .6; Chapelot .2; Vaillons .4; Montmains .4; and Forêts .4. Only Montée de Tonnerre and Butteaux are more than a hectare in size: 2.9 and 1.5, respectively.

Raveneau’s premier crus are nearly as revered as its grands crus. In fact, some would argue that Montée de Tonnerre—from the same south-facing slope as the grand crus—is one of Chablis’ top dozen wines. And Chapelot—from a privileged section of Montée de Tonnerre—may be even better. Certainly, with its tiny production, it enjoys a devoted cult following.

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