Gerard Boulay Sancerre Comtesse 2010
Sancerre is a small wine district in central France, famous for its crisp, aromatic white wines made from Sauvignon Blanc. It is also known for its high-quality goat cheeses, which are an excellent match for local wine.
The vineyards here surround the eponymous town, which sits atop a bean-shaped hill overlooking the river Loire (see Loire Valley). It is only since the mid-20th Century, and the creation of a protected Sancerre appellation, that "Sancerre" has been so strongly associated with white wines.
90 Wine Advocate
Originating as usual in a particularly sweet spot low down on the Monts Damnes, Boulay’s 2010 Sancerre Comtesse leads with effusive, sweet freesia perfume, abetted by sweet lime, grapefruit, and white peach. Rich, but severely, almost hyper-concentrated on the palate, with a strong sense of bitter-edged citrus oil, it sacrifices the primary juiciness, transparency, or exchange of fruit and mineral that characterizes the best wines in the current collection (or indeed, for that matter, the vintage in Sancerre as a whole). While not alcoholically freighted - and undeniably impressively persistent - this palpably dense, persistently perfumed offering seems unlikely to achieve elegance or grace. Still, it’s a formidable contender for at least 6-8 years of bottle maturation and we’ll see what they bring. "These were the best looking and most aromatic grapes of the harvest," notes Boulay.
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